When you picture a lace wedding dress, what comes to mind? Maybe it’s something soft and romantic, intricate and vintage inspired, or bold and dimensional. But here’s something many brides don’t realize until they start wedding dress shopping: not all lace is the same!
The type of lace used on a wedding gown can completely change the look and feel of the dress. Some laces are delicate and barely there, while others are textured, structured, modern, or covered in dimensional flowers.
Welcome to Lace 101 at i do… i do…! Here are some of the most common types of lace you may come across while searching for your wedding dress.
Chantilly Lace
If you love delicate, romantic wedding dresses, Chantilly lace may be exactly what you’re picturing.
Chantilly lace is known for being lightweight, fine, and incredibly detailed. It typically features floral patterns outlined with delicate threads on a fine net background. Because it is so soft, it drapes beautifully rather than adding a lot of structure or weight to a gown.
The look: Soft, romantic, delicate, feminine, and sometimes vintage inspired.
You may see it on: Fitted gowns, long lace sleeves, illusion bodices, necklines, and dresses with lace layered underneath another fabric.
Perfect for the bride who says: “I want lace, but I don’t want it to feel heavy.”
Alençon Lace
Alençon lace is another classic bridal lace, but it tends to have a little more definition than Chantilly.
Often called the Queen of Lace, Alençon lace traditionally features floral or botanical motifs on a net background with the designs outlined in a heavier cord or thread. This outlining helps the lace pattern stand out.
The look: Traditional, elegant, sophisticated, and timeless.
You may see it on: Classic ballgowns, fitted lace gowns, bodices, trains, sleeves, and lace appliqués.
Perfect for the bride who says: “I want a timeless lace wedding dress.”
3D Floral Lace
This is where lace gets really fun!
Instead of a floral design simply being embroidered onto the fabric, 3D floral lace actually comes off the gown, creating texture and dimension. You may see raised petals, leaves, vines, or entire flowers layered onto tulle or another lace.
Some 3D flowers may even be embellished with pearls, beads, crystals, or sequins.
The look: Romantic, whimsical, dimensional, garden inspired, and dramatic.
You may see it on: Statement ballgowns, fitted gowns, illusion bodices, detachable sleeves, straps, trains, and overskirts.
Perfect for the bride who says: “I want people to notice the details when they see my dress up close.”
Corded Lace
Corded lace is all about definition.
A thicker cord is incorporated around portions of the lace design, making the pattern more pronounced. The added dimension can make floral or scroll motifs really pop against the gown.
Depending on the design, corded lace can feel traditional and romantic or bold and contemporary.
The look: Defined, textured, elegant, and slightly more dramatic.
You may see it on: Fitted gowns, structured bodices, trains, sleeves, and gowns with larger lace motifs.
Perfect for the bride who says: “I love lace, but I want the pattern to really stand out.”
Guipure Lace
Guipure lace is easy to recognize because it typically does not have the fine net background you see in many other bridal laces.
Instead, the individual motifs are connected directly to one another, creating a heavier and more graphic lace pattern. Because of this, guipure lace often has a more substantial feel.
The look: Bold, artistic, textured, and sometimes bohemian.
You may see it on: Modern gowns, boho wedding dresses, fitted silhouettes, sleeves, and statement bodices.
Perfect for the bride who says: “I want lace, but I don’t want it to look overly traditional.”
Embroidered Lace
Embroidered lace is created by stitching decorative designs onto a base fabric, often tulle or netting. This gives designers a huge amount of freedom when creating patterns.
The embroidery can be tiny and delicate or large and dramatic. It can also be combined with sequins, beads, pearls, and other embellishments.
The look: It depends! Embroidered lace can be romantic, modern, whimsical, botanical, or glamorous.
You may see it on: Almost everything, from fitted gowns to ballgowns, illusion backs, sleeves, bodices, and trains.
Beaded Lace
Take beautiful lace and add a little sparkle!
Beaded lace incorporates beads, crystals, sequins, pearls, or other embellishments into the lace pattern. Depending on the gown, the sparkle can be extremely subtle or full on glamorous.
One thing to keep in mind is that heavily beaded lace may feel slightly heavier than an unembellished lace.
The look: Glamorous, luxurious, detailed, and light catching.
You may see it on: Fitted gowns, bodices, straps, sleeves, and dresses with all over embellishment.
Perfect for the bride who says: “I want lace AND sparkle.”
Appliqué Lace
You will hear the word appliqué a lot while wedding dress shopping.
Rather than the entire fabric being made from lace, individual lace motifs are cut out and sewn or applied onto another fabric, such as tulle. Designers can strategically place these motifs around the bodice, neckline, hips, skirt, or train.
This technique is also what can create that gorgeous effect where lace seems to float across an illusion bodice.
The look: Romantic, detailed, customizable, and dimensional.
You may see it on: Illusion bodices, sheer backs, straps, skirts, trains, and practically every wedding dress silhouette.
Jacquard
Here’s where things get interesting: Jacquard technically isn’t lace!
But brides who love texture often group it into the same conversation.
With jacquard, the pattern is woven directly into the fabric rather than embroidered or applied on top of it. Floral jacquards have become especially popular in bridal fashion because they give a clean wedding gown texture without creating the traditional appearance of lace.
From a distance, the dress may look clean and classic. Up close, you see an incredible woven floral pattern.
The look: Modern, elevated, structured, luxurious, and fashion forward.
You may see it on: Ballgowns, A line gowns, structured skirts, and clean statement wedding dresses.
Perfect for the bride who says: “I don’t think I’m a lace girl, but I don’t want my dress to be completely plain.”
Eyelash Lace
Yes, bridal lace can have eyelashes!
Eyelash lace gets its name from the tiny fringed threads that extend beyond the edge of the lace. You will often notice this treatment around necklines, sleeves, backs, or other finished edges.
It creates an incredibly soft and delicate appearance.
The look: Delicate, romantic, feminine, and slightly vintage.
You may see it on: Necklines, sleeve cuffs, straps, bodice edges, and veils.
Lace Can Look Completely Different Depending on What’s Underneath
Here is another important part of Lace 101: the exact same lace can look completely different depending on the lining underneath it.
Ivory lace over ivory lining creates a softer and more traditional bridal look. Ivory lace over nude, mocha, or another contrasting lining allows the lace pattern to stand out much more dramatically.
This is one reason we always encourage brides to try the dress on rather than judging it on the hanger. Lace can completely transform once it is against your skin and you can see how the pattern falls across your body.
You Don’t Have to Know Your Lace Before Your Appointment!
If you read this entire guide and still have no idea whether you’re a Chantilly, Alençon, 3D floral, or jacquard bride, that is completely okay!
That’s what your bridal appointment is for.
You may walk into i do… i do… convinced you want a clean gown and leave obsessed with dimensional floral lace. Or you may think you want traditional lace until you put on a textured jacquard ballgown and fall in love.
Instead of worrying about memorizing lace names, pay attention to how the fabric makes you feel.
Do you love delicate details? Bold flowers? Texture? Sparkle? A vintage feeling? Something clean but not completely plain?
Tell your bridal stylist what catches your eye, and we can help translate those details into the perfect wedding dress for you.
Because sometimes finding your dream wedding dress starts with discovering a fabric you never even knew existed. 🤍✨